I’ll admit, it took me some time to determine what precisely the Chopard L.U.C Flying T Twin was reminding me of: to me, it’s a lot just like the horological equal of the eminent pupil that raises the common of the category in each sense of the phrase. It actually received’t be the one whom everybody is aware of in class – there are not any scandals or tiresome pursuit of the newest tendencies with this one… And it’s not till you get to understand it higher that you simply understand, there are some hidden abilities to go along with the eminence.
The Chopard L.U.C assortment — the high-end line of the Fleurier-based manufacture – we’ve got mentioned variety of occasions, introducing it because the underdog when put next in opposition to the favored children akin to Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet and the remainder. The assortment is called after the corporate’s founder, Louis-Ulysse Chopard, which is why the dial says L. U. Chopard and why there is no such thing as a interval after the “C” in “L.U.C” — for these eager to know this stuff. In a approach, it’s the status-free status-watch amongst luxurious timepieces.
Now, it doesn’t take a lot for one to know the way in which I meant “status-free” there. It takes zero understanding of watches and watchmaking for one to acknowledge this all-gold watch as an costly timepiece — although I’d enterprise as far as to say that in all probability few of us watch lovers would determine this was a six-figure-priced watch (I actually didn’t anticipate that to be the case, although I used to be relying on seeing a excessive five-figure value for positive).
What I do imply by “status-free” is how sporting this 118,500-dollar watch is, in a approach, a extremely discreet and restrained alternative. A funds of this magnitude would enable one to get an early Richard Mille RM011, a factory-blinged-out Rolex with sapphires and rubies in it or… Well, just about something from anybody. So, somebody going for an L.U.C piece, a group that now begins at $eight,800, actually makes this a alternative of somebody in the hunt for a timepiece that excels in its execution and design — versus its “street-cred” (the place that phrase got here from, don’t even ask).
Don’t let that aggressive base value of the gathering idiot you. You see, with its L.U.C Full Strike (hands-on right here), Chopard has produced what I take into account to be the best-sounding minute repeater I’ve ever heard — and I’m fortunate sufficient to say that I’d heard lots. Designed, manufactured and assembled in the identical constructing as each different L.U.C, this sapphire-gong minute repeater stands as a testomony to the manufacture’s proprietary know-how, one thing it gathered over the 24 years of operation of its Fleurier facility. All that is to say that there’s a lot of know-how inside Chopard — and I want each model exhibited not less than half this a lot real dedication to positive watchmaking. The fancy trade-shows of the business can be quite a bit much less regurgitative, I can let you know that.
The dial includes a real guilloché dial with a slightly extra distinctive striped honeycomb sample. With guillochage, the specified sample is minimize from a plate of steel utilizing a large machine that’s operated by hand. The sample is dictated by so-called rosettes, however the velocity of the operation and, extra importantly, the depth and the precise location of the sample is at all times set by the guillocheur. I’m telling you all this as a result of the place massive, uninterrupted patterns are difficult-enough to make, to create this honeycomb sample I reckon would entail lifting up the slicing device on the finish of each stripe inside each hexagon. That’s 1000’s upon 1000’s of completely carried out restarts — mess up any one among them and you’ve got a ruined dial.
The motion that powers the Chopard L.U.C Flying T Twin is the L.U.C 96.24-L. It is the primary flying tourbillon of Chopard and it’s based mostly on the L.U.C Caliber 96, which is a micro-rotor caliber that was additionally the primary motion launched by Chopard in 1996. It is a extremely spectacular motion: it could simply be three.30mm thick, however it options two stacked barrels (how about that!) — which explains the “Twin” within the watch’s identify, in addition to the 65-hour energy reserve, exceptionally lengthy for such an ultra-thin caliber. A 22kt strong gold micro-rotor takes care of replenishing the 2 mainsprings, whereas the Geneva Seal certification ensues a sure grade of motion decorations — though I’ve been left unimpressed with Geneva Seal-certified watches earlier than, Chopard L.U.C (just like the eminent pupil it’s), helps elevate the bar on this regard too.
As a outcome, the Chopard L.U.C Flying T Twin is simply 7.2mm thick, all cased up. Not record-thin by any stretch of the creativeness, however skinny sufficient for it to be a correct gown watch. A diameter of 40mm additional emphasizes its deal with class — as do these typical L.U.C-style hands which have, at this level, develop into an important aspect to any watch from Chopard’s high-end assortment. The case is crafted from 18kt Fairmined gold — one thing, so far as I can inform, unique to Chopard. At a time when WWF condemned the luxurious watch business’s practices and lack of transparency of their methods of (not-)coping with local weather change and sourcing their gold from sustainable sources, each effort counts — and Chopard has been amongst a handful to attempt to higher these practices, even when only for restricted collections. I requested Chopard about this again at BaselWorld they usually stated they’re already totally using the obtainable (extraordinarily restricted) variety of Fairmined licensed mines.
If it’s sheer complexity that you’re after, for a similar (eye-watering) quantity, you may choose up the Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chronograph with 455 components, versus the 190 on this Flying T Twin. However, whether it is this flying tourbillon that floats your boat — I’ll actually don’t have any hardship seeing why. Priced at $118,500, the Chopard L.U.C Flying T Twin stands out for its spot-on gown watch type, skinny profile, stunning, but succesful caliber, guilloché dial, Fairmined gold case — and, nicely, its value. You can be taught extra about Chopard L.U.C on the manufacture’s web site right here.